Rituals are a big part of most religions. In Communion, Mass and Buddhist chanting, there are set practices to follow and rules to obey. The same applies for the Maya. My big book of facts says that their religion is animist - syncreatism. I bet you're none the wiser. Neither was I until I found myself on top of a hill outside the city of Chichicastenango, Guatamala watching a chicken get it's head cut off.
The Maya believe in heaven and hell. They believe in God and the Devil. In Maya religion there are nine steps to hell, and thirteen to get to heaven. Rituals are performed not just by priests but by anyone wishing to make their peace with the Spirits.
On top of the hill over looking a bustling market town I observed part of a two hour ritual. There were three Mayan men taking part, there to appease evil spirits. A small alter is made from clay and incense and flower petals are placed on the ground. next to the alter is a circle of candles of varying colours. The main man also has a large incense burner attched to a piece of rope.
From what I could gather the process is this. Once everything is laid out the chanting begins. The main man will keep chanting for the next two hours. The chants are conversations with god, and also conversations with the devil. Incense gets swung back and forth. The candles are lit and burn strongly in the midday sun.
The chanting continues and then after candles are all lit charcoal is added to them to create a fire. Then the chicken appears. This is the sacrifice to their God.
The chicken seemed blissfully unaware of it's fate. It happily clucked and looked around as it was being brought to the alter. The other two men kneel before the alter and are blessed with the chicken by it being placed on their heads by the main man. A knife then appears, and everyone goes quiet. The chicken is placed on the ground next to the fire.
The blade does not cut cleanly through the chicken's neck. The main man has to cut four or five times to severe the head from the body. The head is tossed into the fire as the blood pours out of the chicken on to the ground. The chicken is certainly not docile now. In the throws of death it spasms wildly. The main main has difficulty holding the chicken over the fire. Blood splatters on to his yellow shirt and on his forearm. The flames lick around the feathers of the headless bird as the struggle continues. The other two men look on.
After a couple of minutes the struggling lessens as the flames grow higher around the bird. When certain the bird is dead, the body is thrown into the center of the fire. The air is acrid with the taste of burning feathers and incense. The fire engulfs the carcass. Black smoke billows out across the hill. The process from start to finish takes about 5 minutes. I hope the Gods were appeased.
Then the chanting continues. It is still audible as I walk away back down the hill, with my head buzzing with images of life and death.
1 comment:
And voila! Barbeque chicken Mayan style! Come on, People! What did you expect? Meat is not born neatly packaged in Shrinkwrap, you know!
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