Due to the joys of Indonesian air travel (decrepit airports, lousy timekeeping) my leisurely 4 days in Hong Kong was pegged back to an exhausting, exhilarating 24 hours. So what can you do when you've only got one day to spend in one of the most crazy cities in the world? Well this is what I managed...
9pm
From the super sleek new international airport at Chek Lap Kok, it's time to throw the bags in left luggage and jump on the express train into town. It only takes 20 minutes to get into the centre. They go every few minutes and are clean, quiet and safe. Then in a cheap cab to check in to a hotel in Jordan on Kowloon. Accommodation is pretty expensive here but you can get a full service room for under 90 US dollars. The room has a central console where everything operates from. It takes me ten minutes to work out how to turn on the TV.
10:30pm
Only a 5 minute walk from the hotel is the night market at Temple Street. All kinds of stuff is sold here from clothes to clocks, DVD's to paintings. In the side streets there are great cafes to get some grub and they do live free Cantonese singing performances. It's late in the evening but everyone is still out in the 30 degree heat. Neon lights flash over my head as people race around. Welcome to HK it's full on.
11:30pm
One stop down the metro is Tsim Sha Tsui, HK's tourist ghetto. All the cheap tailors hang out here who'll turn around a suit for you in 48 hours. I don't have that much time though, Boo! I quickly check out Chungking Mansions. The notorious backpackers hovel / sleaze building which was captured in the great film Chungking Express. Cinematographer Chris Doyle says this is the real heart of the city. It's hard to disagree.
12:30pm
I'm fading fast in the humidity so it's down to one of the many basement bars for a pint of San Miguel, the local brew. Pop videos blare out from a corner TV, groups of friends huddle round tables exchanging gossip, drunk financiers quaff champagne. It's all good fun. I stagger out on to Nathan Road and avoiding the approaches of the local drug dealers/prostitutes and touts it's time for some shut eye.
08:00am
The air-con in my room lulls me into a false sense of comfort and as soon as I'm outside the heat blasts straight through me. Joining the rush hour I squeeze on to the metro to Central. Stepping out of the station you immediately look up and gaze at all the skyscrapers. HK loves it's tall buildings. From HSBC's robot like structure, to the mighty Two IFC they represent what the city does best, making money.
09:00
The peak tram is one of the most touristy things you can do, but it's still worth it. Rising from beside Hong Kong park to the Peak park, the vista of the city opens up before you. It's truly stunning and the gods have been gracious enough to give us a clear day to grant amazing views over Kowloon to the New Territories. The park is a lovely space to stretch your legs away from the maddening crowds. Also it's about 5 degrees cooler, not that it matters as my shirt is quickly flecked by sweat. August is a brutal time in the city, apparently November is ideal though..
11:00
Stroll back down to Hong Kong park through the mid-levels. It's all plush apartment complexes housing upper management of all the banking firms. Accommodation is really tight on Hong Kong Island, so most people schlep in on the metro from Kowloon. Quickly see the birds in the aviary. It doesn't look too much fun living your life in a huge net.
13:00
Lunch! and it has to be Dim Sum. There are hundreds of places which specialise in tasty treats which come in little bamboo bowls. I settled on a place in Soho (South of Hollywood Rd, not anything to do with the 'adult' district of london) and tucked into steamed chicken and ginger dumplings, Carrot and pumpkin soup, spring rolls with pak choi, shredded duck parcels; all washed down with green tea. Yum!
15:00
Over to the Western Market to look at some great fabrics and some not so great antiques. Cat St sells lots of bric-a-brac and is a good place to pick up last minute gifts. Nearby there are some independent clothes shops which are worth a browse. Beware, they usually don't stock large sizes. so if you've had a few too many stir fries you might not find anything to fit. Myself being a lithe bunny I had the pick of the range...
17:00
After a thoroughly underwhelming visit to the noon day gun, made famous by Noel Coward in 'Mad Dogs and Englishmen', it's back over the water to the Peninsula Hotel. This hotel is one of the best in the world and commanded great views over to Hong Kong Island. New Buildings on the waterfront have obscured some of these views, but the grand hall is still as impressive as ever. Next time I have 500 quid to burn, I'll be staying here. The Gin & Tonics are very good though.
19:00
My mad dash around the city is almost at an end. Only enough time to check out the statue of Bruce Lee on the street of stars. He was voted "Hong Kong Film Legend of the 20th Century". There are metal barriers keeping eager fans back. Lining the waterfront there are also concrete hand prints of other famous stars including Michelle Yeoh, Jet Li and Jackie Chan.
19:30
Saving the best journey to last I catch the Star Ferry over to the rail terminal. It's a fantastic 9 minute hop and you have a chance to gaze at the amazing skyline lit up against the setting sun. Hong Kong is a dizzying, maddening city where nothing happens at less than full speed. Around each corner is another surprise. It's sweaty, chaotic, joyful and confusing. All life is represented here, and to visit here you'll feel more alive too.
9pm
From the super sleek new international airport at Chek Lap Kok, it's time to throw the bags in left luggage and jump on the express train into town. It only takes 20 minutes to get into the centre. They go every few minutes and are clean, quiet and safe. Then in a cheap cab to check in to a hotel in Jordan on Kowloon. Accommodation is pretty expensive here but you can get a full service room for under 90 US dollars. The room has a central console where everything operates from. It takes me ten minutes to work out how to turn on the TV.
10:30pm
Only a 5 minute walk from the hotel is the night market at Temple Street. All kinds of stuff is sold here from clothes to clocks, DVD's to paintings. In the side streets there are great cafes to get some grub and they do live free Cantonese singing performances. It's late in the evening but everyone is still out in the 30 degree heat. Neon lights flash over my head as people race around. Welcome to HK it's full on.
11:30pmOne stop down the metro is Tsim Sha Tsui, HK's tourist ghetto. All the cheap tailors hang out here who'll turn around a suit for you in 48 hours. I don't have that much time though, Boo! I quickly check out Chungking Mansions. The notorious backpackers hovel / sleaze building which was captured in the great film Chungking Express. Cinematographer Chris Doyle says this is the real heart of the city. It's hard to disagree.
12:30pm
I'm fading fast in the humidity so it's down to one of the many basement bars for a pint of San Miguel, the local brew. Pop videos blare out from a corner TV, groups of friends huddle round tables exchanging gossip, drunk financiers quaff champagne. It's all good fun. I stagger out on to Nathan Road and avoiding the approaches of the local drug dealers/prostitutes and touts it's time for some shut eye.
08:00am
The air-con in my room lulls me into a false sense of comfort and as soon as I'm outside the heat blasts straight through me. Joining the rush hour I squeeze on to the metro to Central. Stepping out of the station you immediately look up and gaze at all the skyscrapers. HK loves it's tall buildings. From HSBC's robot like structure, to the mighty Two IFC they represent what the city does best, making money.
09:00
The peak tram is one of the most touristy things you can do, but it's still worth it. Rising from beside Hong Kong park to the Peak park, the vista of the city opens up before you. It's truly stunning and the gods have been gracious enough to give us a clear day to grant amazing views over Kowloon to the New Territories. The park is a lovely space to stretch your legs away from the maddening crowds. Also it's about 5 degrees cooler, not that it matters as my shirt is quickly flecked by sweat. August is a brutal time in the city, apparently November is ideal though..11:00
Stroll back down to Hong Kong park through the mid-levels. It's all plush apartment complexes housing upper management of all the banking firms. Accommodation is really tight on Hong Kong Island, so most people schlep in on the metro from Kowloon. Quickly see the birds in the aviary. It doesn't look too much fun living your life in a huge net.
13:00
Lunch! and it has to be Dim Sum. There are hundreds of places which specialise in tasty treats which come in little bamboo bowls. I settled on a place in Soho (South of Hollywood Rd, not anything to do with the 'adult' district of london) and tucked into steamed chicken and ginger dumplings, Carrot and pumpkin soup, spring rolls with pak choi, shredded duck parcels; all washed down with green tea. Yum!
15:00
Over to the Western Market to look at some great fabrics and some not so great antiques. Cat St sells lots of bric-a-brac and is a good place to pick up last minute gifts. Nearby there are some independent clothes shops which are worth a browse. Beware, they usually don't stock large sizes. so if you've had a few too many stir fries you might not find anything to fit. Myself being a lithe bunny I had the pick of the range...
17:00
After a thoroughly underwhelming visit to the noon day gun, made famous by Noel Coward in 'Mad Dogs and Englishmen', it's back over the water to the Peninsula Hotel. This hotel is one of the best in the world and commanded great views over to Hong Kong Island. New Buildings on the waterfront have obscured some of these views, but the grand hall is still as impressive as ever. Next time I have 500 quid to burn, I'll be staying here. The Gin & Tonics are very good though.19:00
My mad dash around the city is almost at an end. Only enough time to check out the statue of Bruce Lee on the street of stars. He was voted "Hong Kong Film Legend of the 20th Century". There are metal barriers keeping eager fans back. Lining the waterfront there are also concrete hand prints of other famous stars including Michelle Yeoh, Jet Li and Jackie Chan.
19:30
Saving the best journey to last I catch the Star Ferry over to the rail terminal. It's a fantastic 9 minute hop and you have a chance to gaze at the amazing skyline lit up against the setting sun. Hong Kong is a dizzying, maddening city where nothing happens at less than full speed. Around each corner is another surprise. It's sweaty, chaotic, joyful and confusing. All life is represented here, and to visit here you'll feel more alive too.